Sunday, February 7, 2010

First week... Damascus, Qala'at Al-Hosn, Afamea, wa Hama

So I've now been in Damascus for a week, though it's felt much longer. The first couple of days were pretty overwhelming. First impressions - Damascus is big and there's a lot of traffic. I'm finally learning my way around though, or at least which minibuses to take, so I'm feeling more comfortable in the city. The first couple of days were very busy, registering at the university, getting my blood test (I don't have AIDS... woohoo! --if the test had come up positive, I would have 24 hours to leave the country), taking the placement test (I'm starting in the beginner 3 class), and meeting my private tutor. Maybe the most surprising thing so far is the cold. It actually snowed a couple of days ago. Not enough to stick, but still quite cold.

My host family is really nice. I have a host mom (Am Anas), dad (Mohammed), and sister (Judy is 13 years). They are really patient and helpful. Judy talks in the Syrian dialect a lot, but my host parents speak fusah, and I'm picking up a little of the dialect as well. I feel like al-kitaab has failed me in basic conversation, but I'm learning many new words every day and hopefully improving in that aspect (this is a very humbling experience). We have a pet turtle which sleeps in a box outside of my room. She's fun to watch. Two days ago I traveled with Am Anas to her sister's home and later her daughter's. So far I've eaten most of my meals with the family, and they've stressed to me several times that I'm home now, I'm their daughter now, and I can help myself to whatever. Mafi mushkila - no problem. Everyone is very hospitable.

Thursday I met my private teacher, Basema. My lessons are at a private school next to a mosque, and my first lesson was actually inside the mosque. I had to take my shoes off and cover my head. We were on the second floor of the mosque, with other female students studying around us. I'll meet her three times a week in the afternoon for two hours at a time.

Yesterday I traveled with Arabesk to Qala'at Al-Hosn, Afamea, and Hama (north of the city). It was really nice to leave the city and see snow covered mountains and green fields. Qala'at Al-Hosn is a huge crusader castle (possibly the biggest in the world?) and in really good condition. It sits on top of a mountain and has a great view of the cities, olive trees, and fields below (with snow-covered Lebanese mountains in the distance). Afamea is a city first built in the 3rd century BC. Archaeologists have restored some of the columns, but much of the site still lies in ruins. It is a huge site and very impressive to see in person. We only stayed in Hama long enough to see old water wheels and buys some sweets for our ride back home.

Today was my first day of class at the university. Unfortunately I missed half of class because I had an appointment at the US Embassy to get a letter for university (and they gave me the wrong thing, so I'll have to book another appointment). My teacher is really nice and patient. The students are all ages and from all over the world. It's interesting to hear all of their stories. Class is from 9:00am to 1:00am, with 10min breaks every hour.

And now I should probably go study. It's a lot to take in, but it's good.

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